Brehs im about to buy a new car.Teach me how not to get got by these dudes

GoFlipAPack

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tell me all the tricks so I don't get got brehs. Im trying to walk out like I pulled a fast one on them. what fees can I avoid? what should I look out for?
 

GoFlipAPack

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A 2010 Nissan Maxima for $20,500 47 thousand miles sport package,navigation,leather,

edit: It still has the maunfactures warranty too
 

MikeBrownsJob

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A 2010 Nissan Maxima for $20,500 47 thousand miles sport package,navigation,leather,

edit: It still has the maunfactures warranty too

:dahell:

You got 21 stacks of high society and you are buying a vehicle 4 years old(2014 for cars is already here)

Just saying breh. This can't be life. Look around more.
 

Card Holder

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are you financing this 21k through the dealership, or do you have a certified check from your own bank or are you paying cash? the last two options give you more negotiating power on the price. don't listen to the nikkaz about buying a used car theres nothing wrong with that.
 

MoneyTron

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:dahell:

You got 21 stacks of high society and you are buying a vehicle 4 years old(2014 for cars is already here)

Just saying breh. This can't be life. Look around more.

I did the same thing almost two years ago and did just fine with my purchase. I actually spent more.

If he's buying it used from the Nissan dealer its probably CPO which is just fine.

OP needs to find some cheaper comps and possibly talk him down. Other than that, don't let them upsell you on stupid shyt like tire warranties and undercoating.
 

unit321

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A 2010 Nissan Maxima for $20,500 47 thousand miles sport package,navigation,leather,

edit: It still has the maunfactures warranty too
It's a nice car, but you have options, as in walking away and taking your money elsewhere.
You need to haggle that down.
First, test drive and look it over.

Look around on autotrader.com and you will see, at least I did, the same car with less miles and for less money. (none of them have leather seats). These are ball park numbers to work with. As you can see on autotrader, there are plenty of Maximas, and worse comes to worse, you can arrange to buy a car from an out-of-state dealership. You'll just need to get a 30-day temp tag from the dealership so you can drive it back home after you buy it.

Cars for Sale: 2010 Nissan Maxima 3.5 S in New Rochelle, NY 10801: Sedan Details - 345860046 - AutoTrader.com

Cars for Sale: 2010 Nissan Maxima 3.5 S in Chesapeake, VA 23321: Sedan Details - 345660573 - AutoTrader.com

Cars for Sale: 2010 Nissan Maxima 3.5 S in Staten Island, NY 10305: Sedan Details - 330359449 - AutoTrader.com


Second, don't get it financed by their bank. You can get more bargaining power.

Third, be willing to walk away if you don't like their counter offers. I've done that before. The salesman will hem and haw and look around for your driver's license but the salesman knows exactly where it is. You walk, and that's that.
 

ElChapin

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Look up the KBB value of the car since you already know the particulars of the vehicle and negotiate down from the KBB value, don't negotiate from their price. Also, its a good idea like the previous poster said to go in with your own financing. Always be willing to walk out if they leave you waiting while they "speak" to their manager, as this is a mental trick to make you feel like the dealer is in charge, not you. Also, remember that it costs nothing for the salesman to throw in free oil changes and routine vehicle services as it does not come out of his pocket, so make sure you get freebies. Last but not least, when buying the GAP insurance do not spend more than a couple of hundred at the max, they are gonna try to sell it for about 500.
 

BlvdBrawler

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Buy private party instead of from a dealership. You'll save thousands on taxes and fees.
 

tofuspeedstar

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Paying cash is a myth. Dealerships make their money on financing, if you even mention you're paying cash you're not going to get as good a deal as if you "act" like you're going to finance then pay cash at the end while you're in the finance office. Yeah they'll get mad at you, but you'll be :win:at the end. The second you let the salesman know you're paying cash is the second you fukked up on getting the best deal possible and lose a substantial amount of negotiating power.

Also what the guy above said..go at the end of the month. They'll do anything to make the quotas/numbers if they haven't.

Don't buy into that extended warranty bullshyt either or get up sold on shyt you don't need cause they make it sound like you need it.

Try to finance through a credit union, they usually offer better rates (well..here in Texas they do)

When the salesman asks you (and they will ask you this first) "What do you want your payment to be" you don't tell them anything, you tell them you want to work on the price first before the payment.

If they tell you a price and you don't like it, throw your hands in the air and say "that's not good enough" and get up and walk out, if they don't stop you then fukk 'em. But 96% of the time they will stop you to bring you closer to your magic number.

Edmunds is the most common place to look at for invoice pricing on cars. Honestly I wouldn't pay more than 3% above invoice on most cars. But if you can get to invoice pricing then more power to you.
 

King Theo

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Paying cash is a myth. Dealerships make their money on financing, if you even mention you're paying cash you're not going to get as good a deal as if you "act" like you're going to finance then pay cash at the end while you're in the finance office. Yeah they'll get mad at you, but you'll be :win:at the end. The second you let the salesman know you're paying cash is the second you fukked up on getting the best deal possible and lose a substantial amount of negotiating power.

Also what the guy above said..go at the end of the month. They'll do anything to make the quotas/numbers if they haven't.

Don't buy into that extended warranty bullshyt either or get up sold on shyt you don't need cause they make it sound like you need it.

Try to finance through a credit union, they usually offer better rates (well..here in Texas they do)

When the salesman asks you (and they will ask you this first) "What do you want your payment to be" you don't tell them anything, you tell them you want to work on the price first before the payment.

If they tell you a price and you don't like it, throw your hands in the air and say "that's not good enough" and get up and walk out, if they don't stop you then fukk 'em. But 96% of the time they will stop you to bring you closer to your magic number.

Edmunds is the most common place to look at for invoice pricing on cars. Honestly I wouldn't pay more than 3% above invoice on most cars. But if you can get to invoice pricing then more power to you.

Call me a bad salesman. but isnt monthly payments really what the point of financing is. you can get that number down to w.e you want. and then you get some absurd interest rate.

one reason i hate working in the car business is because its the only place you can negotiate your price down to invoice which would mean i would technically make no money.

and in terms of financing thru credit unions most of the time a good finance dept can match said credit union.

i hate the bad stigma around car salesmen. when the times your really getting raped is when you come in for service.
i have a client who ordered wheel locks and i was paying for it. so instead of having service put them on at $100 P/H. i just went and did it myself in 10 minutes.
 
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