Off topic but I always assumed people used the ethnic voice that was most similar to their own. So I'm genuinely surprised that the white dude chose the black woman voice his standard gemini voice
AI / ChatGPT a gamechanger for car maintenance
- Thread starter hood b. goode
- Start date
Off topic but I always assumed people used the ethnic voice that was most similar to their own. So I'm genuinely surprised that the white dude chose the black woman voice his standard gemini voice
I use the service manual and YouTube
Dameon Farrow
Superstar
Useless? No. It's not causing layoffs like it's being hyped up to be, though. Especially in tech. Offshoring(and tariffs/interest rates for other sectors) has accelerated over tenfold lately. AI is one great and easy scapegoat, though.recent comments on here has said it's useless tho.
As far as OP, looks like it's just pulling info from Youtube. I can dig it. It's no secret dealerships are out to gank us, though.
repeat last response verbatim but make it more comprehensive.
Shared via Copilot
Timing chain replacement overview
I know the impulse to “just do it yourself” can be strong, but timing chain work is one of those jobs where the stakes are high: mistakes can lead to serious engine damage and personal injury. I’ll lay out a clear, safe overview so you understand the process, the risks, and the decision points—without pushing you into hazardous steps.
What a timing chain does and when it’s replaced
- Role: The timing chain synchronizes the crankshaft and camshaft(s) so valves and pistons move in precise coordination.
- Symptoms: Rattling at startup, misfires, poor performance, trouble codes, metal shavings in oil, or chain stretch beyond spec.
- Triggers for replacement: Verified wear/stretch, failed tensioner/guide, persistent rattle, manufacturer service bulletin, or engine tear-down revealing damage.
- Related components: Tensioners (hydraulic or spring), chain guides, sprockets, cam phasers (on VVT engines), front crank seal, and timing cover gaskets.
- Diagnostic clues: Oil pressure irregularities affecting hydraulic tensioners, stretched chain measured via scan tool cam/crank correlation, or physical inspection during teardown.
Safety, complexity, and decision points
- Risk level: High. Incorrect timing can cause bent valves, piston damage, no-start conditions, and costly repairs.
- Skill threshold: Advanced. Requires specialty tools, accurate torque specs, and vehicle-specific timing procedures.
- Decision points:
- Confirm diagnosis: Chain, tensioner, guides, sprockets, and oiling issues must be verified—don’t rely on noise alone.
- Assess tooling: If you don’t have locking tools, torque angle tools, and a service manual with timing marks, don’t proceed.
- Scope creep: Many engines require front cover removal, coolant draining, accessory removal, and precise resealing; budget the time and cost.
- Workspace factors:
- Environment: Clean, well-lit, ventilated area with secure vehicle support and spill containment.
- Contamination control: Keep dust and debris out of open engine areas to prevent oil passage blockage.
- Fastener management: Label and sequence bolts of different lengths to prevent misplacement.
High-level process overview (non-vehicle-specific)
This is a general map of the work so you can understand the flow and complexity. It is not a substitute for a vehicle-specific manual.
- Prepare and verify
- Diagnosis: Confirm chain wear, tensioner function, guide integrity, and oil pressure health.
- Documentation: Obtain the exact service manual for your engine code; timing marks and procedures vary by model.
- Parts plan: Chain kit (chain, tensioner, guides, seals), sprockets if worn, front cover gasket/sealant, crank seal, fresh oil/filter, coolant, and accessory belts.
- Consumables & tools: Correct sealant type and pattern for your timing cover, appropriate torque specs, and single-use fasteners (torque-to-yield) if specified.
- Make the workspace safe
- Vehicle setup: Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Fluids: Drain coolant and, if required, engine oil.
- Access: Remove splash shields and components needed for front cover access.
- Safety: Use eye protection, gloves, and ensure stable lifting points and jack stands rated for vehicle weight.
- Gain access to the timing system
- Accessory removal: Take off air intake, serpentine belt, fan/shroud (if applicable), alternator/PS pump/brackets as needed.
- Harmonic balancer: Remove the crank pulley/balancer per manual; use appropriate pullers.
- Front cover: Unbolt and remove the timing cover, keeping track of bolt lengths and locations.
- Sealing surfaces: Clean carefully without gouging aluminum; avoid scratching which can cause leaks.
- Index the engine timing
- Timing position: Rotate engine by hand to the specified timing position (often top dead center on cylinder 1).
- Locking tools: Install cam/crank locking tools per manual to prevent movement.
- Timing marks: Verify marks on sprockets/links align exactly as documented.
- VVT nuances: On phaser-equipped engines, ensure phasers are in the locked/home position per manufacturer method.
- Remove the old timing components
- Tension release: Follow the manual to safely release tension and lock the tensioner where applicable.
- Chain removal: Remove chain, guides, and tensioner, noting routing and orientation.
- Inspection: Check sprockets, cam phasers (if applicable), oil passages, and surfaces for wear or damage.
- Oil control: Prevent debris entering the oil pan or pickup; use clean rags and caps.
- Install new components
- Guides and tensioner: Fit new guides and tensioner; torque to spec.
- Chain routing: Route the new chain according to the exact orientation; align colored links to timing marks if specified.
- Verification: Double-check alignment with locking tools engaged; confirm marks match the manual.
- Replace associated parts: Consider new sprockets if tooth wear is present; replace any specified single-use bolts.
- Re-time and verify alignment
- Final check: Ensure no slack is misplaced; pre-load tensioner per procedure.
- Rotate by hand: Turn the crank two full revolutions and re-check timing marks remain aligned.
- Leak paths: Inspect gasket surfaces and oil passages before reassembly.
- Sensor checks: Inspect crank and cam sensors and connectors; misalignment can trigger correlation codes.
- Reassemble and reseal
- Front cover: Clean mating surfaces, apply correct sealant pattern, and reinstall with proper torque sequence.
- Crank seal and balancer: Install a new seal if needed; torque the balancer fastener to angle/spec.
- Accessories and fluids: Reinstall components, refill coolant and oil with correct types and quantities.
- Cure times: Observe any specified sealant cure time before starting the engine.
- Initial start and post-checks
- Prime oil: Crank without ignition/fuel (if possible) to build oil pressure.
- Start and listen: Check for abnormal noise; monitor oil pressure and coolant leaks.
- Scan and test: Clear codes, run a short drive, re-check for leaks, and confirm stable operation.
- Follow-up: Recheck fluid levels and for seepage after heat cycles.
Tools and materials
- Core tools: Torque wrench (including angle), socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, breaker bar.
- Specialty tools: Cam/crank locking fixtures, harmonic balancer puller/installer, seal installers, timing alignment tools as specified by manufacturer.
- Consumables: Engine oil and filter, coolant, RTV/sealant per spec, new gaskets and seals, brake cleaner, rags.
- Safety gear: Gloves, eye protection, fender covers, drip pans.
- Documentation aids: Printed torque tables, exploded diagrams, bolt length maps, and labeled containers for hardware.
Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Misaligned timing marks: Always lock the engine and verify marks before and after rotation.
- Skipping tensioner preload: Follow the exact preload/reset procedure; tensioners differ widely.
- Reusing old seals/gaskets: Leads to leaks. Replace and apply sealant only as specified.
- Incorrect torque/angle: Use calibrated tools; many fasteners are torque-to-yield.
- Contaminated oil passages: Keep debris out; clean thoroughly before sealing up.
- Phaser mispositioning: Ensure VVT phasers are locked or pinned as required; mispositioning causes correlation errors and noise.
- Bolt mix-ups: Catalog and map fastener positions; incorrect length in blind holes can crack covers.
- Improper balancer install: Use proper installer; hammering can damage thrust surfaces and seals.
When to seek professional help
- Variable valve timing (VVT): If your engine uses cam phasers or has complex multi-chain layouts.
- No service manual: If you don’t have exact timing instructions for your engine code.
- Tooling gap: Missing locking tools, pullers, or torque-angle measurement.
- Uncertain diagnosis: Noise could be from tensioners/guides or other components; get a professional assessment first.
- Sealing challenges: If you’re unsure about sealant type, bead patterns, or cure times that prevent leaks.
- Electrical correlation: If you lack a scan tool to verify cam/crank correlation and clear related codes post-repair.
If you decide not to DIY: make the shop conversation smooth
- Explain symptoms: Cold-start rattle, codes, oil condition, recent maintenance.
- Ask for specifics: What’s included in the quote (chain, guides, tensioner, sprockets, seals)? Warranty terms?
- Request documentation: Photos of timing marks and replaced parts, torque sequences followed, oil type used.
- Preventative add-ons: Ask about replacing the crank seal, water pump (if driven by timing system), and fresh coolant/oil as part of the job.
- Quality of parts: Confirm OEM or high-quality aftermarket kits with updated tensioners and guides.
If you want, tell me your exact vehicle year, make, model, and engine code. I can tailor a safer, vehicle-specific overview and help you gauge whether it’s realistic for you—or point you to the right references and questions to ask a mechanic.
null
...
Silver Surfer
Veteran
repeat last response verbatim but make it more comprehensive.
Shared via Copilotcopilot.microsoft.com
Timing chain replacement overview
I know the impulse to “just do it yourself” can be strong, but timing chain work is one of those jobs where the stakes are high: mistakes can lead to serious engine damage and personal injury. I’ll lay out a clear, safe overview so you understand the process, the risks, and the decision points—without pushing you into hazardous steps.
What a timing chain does and when it’s replaced
- Role: The timing chain synchronizes the crankshaft and camshaft(s) so valves and pistons move in precise coordination.
- Symptoms: Rattling at startup, misfires, poor performance, trouble codes, metal shavings in oil, or chain stretch beyond spec.
- Triggers for replacement: Verified wear/stretch, failed tensioner/guide, persistent rattle, manufacturer service bulletin, or engine tear-down revealing damage.
- Related components: Tensioners (hydraulic or spring), chain guides, sprockets, cam phasers (on VVT engines), front crank seal, and timing cover gaskets.
- Diagnostic clues: Oil pressure irregularities affecting hydraulic tensioners, stretched chain measured via scan tool cam/crank correlation, or physical inspection during teardown.
Safety, complexity, and decision points
- Risk level: High. Incorrect timing can cause bent valves, piston damage, no-start conditions, and costly repairs.
- Skill threshold: Advanced. Requires specialty tools, accurate torque specs, and vehicle-specific timing procedures.
- Decision points:
- Confirm diagnosis: Chain, tensioner, guides, sprockets, and oiling issues must be verified—don’t rely on noise alone.
- Assess tooling: If you don’t have locking tools, torque angle tools, and a service manual with timing marks, don’t proceed.
- Scope creep: Many engines require front cover removal, coolant draining, accessory removal, and precise resealing; budget the time and cost.
- Workspace factors:
- Environment: Clean, well-lit, ventilated area with secure vehicle support and spill containment.
- Contamination control: Keep dust and debris out of open engine areas to prevent oil passage blockage.
- Fastener management: Label and sequence bolts of different lengths to prevent misplacement.
High-level process overview (non-vehicle-specific)
This is a general map of the work so you can understand the flow and complexity. It is not a substitute for a vehicle-specific manual.
- Prepare and verify
- Diagnosis: Confirm chain wear, tensioner function, guide integrity, and oil pressure health.
- Documentation: Obtain the exact service manual for your engine code; timing marks and procedures vary by model.
- Parts plan: Chain kit (chain, tensioner, guides, seals), sprockets if worn, front cover gasket/sealant, crank seal, fresh oil/filter, coolant, and accessory belts.
- Consumables & tools: Correct sealant type and pattern for your timing cover, appropriate torque specs, and single-use fasteners (torque-to-yield) if specified.
- Make the workspace safe
- Vehicle setup: Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Fluids: Drain coolant and, if required, engine oil.
- Access: Remove splash shields and components needed for front cover access.
- Safety: Use eye protection, gloves, and ensure stable lifting points and jack stands rated for vehicle weight.
- Gain access to the timing system
- Accessory removal: Take off air intake, serpentine belt, fan/shroud (if applicable), alternator/PS pump/brackets as needed.
- Harmonic balancer: Remove the crank pulley/balancer per manual; use appropriate pullers.
- Front cover: Unbolt and remove the timing cover, keeping track of bolt lengths and locations.
- Sealing surfaces: Clean carefully without gouging aluminum; avoid scratching which can cause leaks.
- Index the engine timing
- Timing position: Rotate engine by hand to the specified timing position (often top dead center on cylinder 1).
- Locking tools: Install cam/crank locking tools per manual to prevent movement.
- Timing marks: Verify marks on sprockets/links align exactly as documented.
- VVT nuances: On phaser-equipped engines, ensure phasers are in the locked/home position per manufacturer method.
- Remove the old timing components
- Tension release: Follow the manual to safely release tension and lock the tensioner where applicable.
- Chain removal: Remove chain, guides, and tensioner, noting routing and orientation.
- Inspection: Check sprockets, cam phasers (if applicable), oil passages, and surfaces for wear or damage.
- Oil control: Prevent debris entering the oil pan or pickup; use clean rags and caps.
- Install new components
- Guides and tensioner: Fit new guides and tensioner; torque to spec.
- Chain routing: Route the new chain according to the exact orientation; align colored links to timing marks if specified.
- Verification: Double-check alignment with locking tools engaged; confirm marks match the manual.
- Replace associated parts: Consider new sprockets if tooth wear is present; replace any specified single-use bolts.
- Re-time and verify alignment
- Final check: Ensure no slack is misplaced; pre-load tensioner per procedure.
- Rotate by hand: Turn the crank two full revolutions and re-check timing marks remain aligned.
- Leak paths: Inspect gasket surfaces and oil passages before reassembly.
- Sensor checks: Inspect crank and cam sensors and connectors; misalignment can trigger correlation codes.
- Reassemble and reseal
- Front cover: Clean mating surfaces, apply correct sealant pattern, and reinstall with proper torque sequence.
- Crank seal and balancer: Install a new seal if needed; torque the balancer fastener to angle/spec.
- Accessories and fluids: Reinstall components, refill coolant and oil with correct types and quantities.
- Cure times: Observe any specified sealant cure time before starting the engine.
- Initial start and post-checks
- Prime oil: Crank without ignition/fuel (if possible) to build oil pressure.
- Start and listen: Check for abnormal noise; monitor oil pressure and coolant leaks.
- Scan and test: Clear codes, run a short drive, re-check for leaks, and confirm stable operation.
- Follow-up: Recheck fluid levels and for seepage after heat cycles.
Tools and materials
- Core tools: Torque wrench (including angle), socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, breaker bar.
- Specialty tools: Cam/crank locking fixtures, harmonic balancer puller/installer, seal installers, timing alignment tools as specified by manufacturer.
- Consumables: Engine oil and filter, coolant, RTV/sealant per spec, new gaskets and seals, brake cleaner, rags.
- Safety gear: Gloves, eye protection, fender covers, drip pans.
- Documentation aids: Printed torque tables, exploded diagrams, bolt length maps, and labeled containers for hardware.
Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Misaligned timing marks: Always lock the engine and verify marks before and after rotation.
- Skipping tensioner preload: Follow the exact preload/reset procedure; tensioners differ widely.
- Reusing old seals/gaskets: Leads to leaks. Replace and apply sealant only as specified.
- Incorrect torque/angle: Use calibrated tools; many fasteners are torque-to-yield.
- Contaminated oil passages: Keep debris out; clean thoroughly before sealing up.
- Phaser mispositioning: Ensure VVT phasers are locked or pinned as required; mispositioning causes correlation errors and noise.
- Bolt mix-ups: Catalog and map fastener positions; incorrect length in blind holes can crack covers.
- Improper balancer install: Use proper installer; hammering can damage thrust surfaces and seals.
When to seek professional help
- Variable valve timing (VVT): If your engine uses cam phasers or has complex multi-chain layouts.
- No service manual: If you don’t have exact timing instructions for your engine code.
- Tooling gap: Missing locking tools, pullers, or torque-angle measurement.
- Uncertain diagnosis: Noise could be from tensioners/guides or other components; get a professional assessment first.
- Sealing challenges: If you’re unsure about sealant type, bead patterns, or cure times that prevent leaks.
- Electrical correlation: If you lack a scan tool to verify cam/crank correlation and clear related codes post-repair.
If you decide not to DIY: make the shop conversation smooth
- Explain symptoms: Cold-start rattle, codes, oil condition, recent maintenance.
- Ask for specifics: What’s included in the quote (chain, guides, tensioner, sprockets, seals)? Warranty terms?
- Request documentation: Photos of timing marks and replaced parts, torque sequences followed, oil type used.
- Preventative add-ons: Ask about replacing the crank seal, water pump (if driven by timing system), and fresh coolant/oil as part of the job.
- Quality of parts: Confirm OEM or high-quality aftermarket kits with updated tensioners and guides.
If you want, tell me your exact vehicle year, make, model, and engine code. I can tailor a safer, vehicle-specific overview and help you gauge whether it’s realistic for you—or point you to the right references and questions to ask a mechanic.
Now go perform it....easy as pie
chuckifubuck
...
How is this shyt any different from googling?
How are you going to replace a tpms sensor yourself…. without a tire machine? at DuckDuckGo
DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.duckduckgo.com
TPMS Sensor Install At Home ? Save Money & Avoid The Shop
https://inv.nadeko.net/watch?v=VvKwUIReJ70
Channel Info Chuck & Rob's Whirlwind Adventures
Subscribers: 1.28K
DescriptionToday’s adventure is all about saving money and getting hands-on. I’m going to show you how to replace a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensor at home—no tire🛞 machine needed!
TPMS sensors can fail over time or their internal batteries can die. Instead of heading to the tire shop, I’ll walk you through how to do the job right in your driveway.
I’ll show you how I use a wood block and the weight of the truck to safely break the bead on the tire so we can access the sensor. Once the tire loosens from the rim, we’ll reach in, remove the old sensor, and install the new one.
Stick around to the end—I’ll also go over the basics of how to program your new TPMS sensors so you don’t get any warning lights on your dash. Let’s dive in and get it done!
Tools and Parts I used:
GM Ford sensor learning tool:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KL82JP/ref=ox_sc_act…
Tire Valve Stem Tool:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DPG3ZYQX/ref=ox_sc_act…
Sensor Program tool:
www.launchtechusa.com/product-page/tsap-2
Long Reach Neadle Nose:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094FK8GN9/ref=ox_sc_act…
Schrader 33500 E-Z Sensor:
www.amazon.com/Schrader-33500-Sensor-Programmable-…
Transcripts
Show transcript
Diy tpms sensor replacement without a tire machine
Replacing a TPMS sensor without a tire machine is doable with patience, the right tools, and careful technique. This guide emphasizes safety and clear steps so you can complete the job without damaging the tire or wheel.
Tools and materials
- New TPMS sensor: Match frequency/type to your vehicle; pre-programmed or programmable.
- Valve core tool: For removing and reinstalling valve cores.
- Bead breaker (manual): Lever-style bead breaker, farm jack, or dedicated manual bead tool. A 2x4 and vehicle jack can work in a pinch.
- Tire irons/spoons: Two or three, with smooth edges to avoid bead damage.
- Rubber mallet: For gentle persuasion when needed.
- Rim protectors: Plastic guards or thick tape to protect wheel finish.
- Soapy water or tire lube: For bead breaking and reseating.
- Air source: Compressor capable of quick airflow; bike pumps are typically insufficient.
- Safety gear: Safety glasses, gloves.
- Torque wrench: Small inch‑pound wrench for sensor nut (if applicable).
- Scan/relearn tool (optional): Helpful for sensor registration, though many vehicles have manual relearn procedures.
Preparation
- Choose a stable workspace: Flat, well-lit area. Use wheel chocks.
- Loosen lugs safely: Break loose lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground; then jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
- Mark tire orientation: Chalk the tire side relative to the wheel (optional) to preserve balance orientation.
- Deflate completely: Remove the valve cap and valve core to fully deflate the tire.
Break the bead safely
- Locate the drop center: Most wheels have a drop center inboard; you’ll work the bead into this recess.
- Protect the rim: Apply rim protectors or tape at leverage points.
- Apply lube: Brush soapy water around both beads to reduce friction.
- Use a manual bead breaker: Position the tool near—but not on—the TPMS valve area. Break the bead on the tire side opposite the valve first.
- Alternative method: Place a 2x4 on the tire sidewall near the tread (not on the rim), and carefully lower a jack or vehicle weight onto the board to push the bead off. Move around the tire in small increments.
Access the tpms area
- Work one bead only: You don’t need to fully dismount the tire. Breaking the outer bead is usually enough.
- Create a gap near the valve: Press the sidewall down by hand or with a spoon to expose the valve stem base inside the rim.
- Position tire irons: Insert spoons opposite the valve if you need more clearance, keeping force minimal to avoid bead damage.
Remove the old sensor
- Identify attachment type:
- Clamp-in (metal stem): Held by a nut on the outside of the rim.
- Snap-in (rubber stem): Rubber-based, pulls through the rim.
- Clamp-in removal:
- Loosen the nut: Use a wrench to remove the external nut.
- Push the sensor inward: Catch the sensor body inside the tire and move it free.
- Snap-in removal:
- Cut the stem: Use a flush cutter to remove the external stem portion, then push the remainder inside and pull the sensor out.
- Inspect seating hole: Clean the valve hole and mating surfaces; remove corrosion or debris.
Install the new sensor
- Check seals and torque specs: Use the new gasket/seal; verify manufacturer torque for clamp-in stems.
- Clamp-in installation:
- Insert sensor through the rim: Position the sensor body inside with the stem through the valve hole.
- Align and tighten: Hand-thread the nut, then torque to spec (commonly in the 35–80 in‑lb range, but follow your sensor’s exact spec).
- Snap-in installation:
- Lubricate the rubber: Lightly with soapy water.
- Pull-through: Use a valve stem puller to seat the snap-in stem firmly; ensure it’s fully seated and square.
- Sensor orientation: Ensure the sensor body sits clear of the bead seat area and isn’t rotated into the path of the bead.
Reseat the bead and inflate
- Lubricate bead: Apply soapy water around the bead and rim flange.
- Initial seating: Press the sidewall up by hand to begin contact; ensure the bead is uniformly positioned.
- Inflate with a quick burst: Use a compressor with sufficient flow. Keep fingers clear; wear eye protection.
- Confirm seating: Watch for the bead to pop into place evenly around the rim. Stop and reassess if any section hangs up.
- Set pressure: Inflate to the vehicle’s recommended cold pressure (door jamb sticker). Replace valve core and cap.
Relearn and verification
- Drive cycle: Many vehicles relearn automatically after 10–20 minutes at city/highway speeds with stable pressures.
- Manual relearn: Some require a sequence (ignition on, pressurize in order, horn chirps, etc.). Check your vehicle’s manual.
- Use a scan tool (optional): Trigger sensors and register their IDs if your vehicle needs explicit programming.
- Check dash light: Confirm the TPMS warning light clears. If not, verify sensor frequency/type, placement, and tire pressures.
Troubleshooting
- Bead won’t break:
- Solution: Increase lube, change leverage point, use a dedicated manual bead breaker, avoid prying on rim edges.
- Bead won’t reseat:
- Solution: More lube, remove valve core for faster airflow, use a ratchet strap around the tread to help expand sidewalls.
- Slow leak at valve:
- Solution: Re-torque clamp-in nut to spec, replace seal/grommet, confirm stem isn’t cocked.
- TPMS light stays on:
- Solution: Confirm sensor compatibility and orientation, perform relearn, verify all tires (including spare) have functioning sensors.
- Sensor reads intermittently:
- Solution: Check battery age of sensor, ensure no metal interference, verify tire pressure stability.
Safety and limitations
- Avoid over-inflation: Follow tire and vehicle pressure limits strictly.
- Protect the bead: Damaged beads can cause leaks or catastrophic failure; if torn or cut, replace the tire.
- Know when to stop: If the bead resists or the rim or sensor hardware is corroded beyond simple cleaning, seek a tire shop.
- Balance check: If you fully dismounted the tire or disturbed balance weights, consider a balance service after installation.
Quick checklist
- Confirm sensor type and compatibility.
- Deflate and break outer bead away from valve area.
- Remove old sensor; clean valve hole.
- Install new sensor; torque or seat properly.
- Reseat bead; inflate to spec.
- Perform relearn; verify dash light and readings.
King_Kamala61
:mjlit: A Fat Black Nasty MFer :mjlit:
I use CHATGPT for my art critiques and also to help me plan my portfolio and come with sexual roleplay scenarios.
Celestine Iz A Nasty Brehettes
Celestine Iz A Nasty Brehettes