Ask A Mechanic Anything (...About Cars )

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Ive been turning wrenches for a long time and i have done so much from bodywork,sound,video,engine ,tranny swaps [pause] and rebuilds ,ECU ,Tuning,Hybrid battery rebuilds.Pretty much everything but replacing windshields

Ive been trained both in the old school way using ears ,stethoscopes and a vacuum guage and in the new ways with OBDII scanners ,CAN bus ,Inspection cameras and software :win:

Im now offering TSR the benefit of my experience...so fire away
 

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Do you know how to tune OBD1 PCMs?

I need a little more info.bruh..make model engine family

Keep in mind OBD 1 wasnt that flexible bruh..they had to be flashed using manufacturer specific software..kind of like flashing the bios of an old school windows computer...one wrong move and you ended up with a bricked ECU

Honestly..Im not even sure i can find the connectors or the software to do it with...the real question is whether youre willing to risk it on a pre 1995 vehicle and how much improvement it will actually make

Maybe modding the engine will give you better power/efficiency than messing with the ECU
 

King Sun

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I need to change out the brake pads on my 14 chevy SS but the fronts are brembos and this would be my first time swapping brake pads. Is this something I should be doing my first time.
 

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I need to change out the brake pads on my 14 chevy SS but the fronts are brembos and this would be my first time swapping brake pads. Is this something I should be doing my first time.

Brembo type pads are actually easier to change than regular pads cos you dont have to open any bolts or nuts ..You gotta be careful tapping the pins out and make sure you reinstall the everything the same way it came out and youre good.
If you ever changed regular pads you have enough skill to do brembos




This dude did not compress his caliper pistons thats why his were so tight..you shouldslide a small rubber or plastic coated prybar between the pad and rotor and gently compress the pistons ..then they come out real easy and you have enough clearance for the new pads which will be thicker.
 
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Sleepy Walker

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I need a little more info.bruh..make model engine family

Keep in mind OBD 1 wasnt that flexible bruh..they had to be flashed using manufacturer specific software..kind of like flashing the bios of an old school windows computer...one wrong move and you ended up with a bricked ECU

Honestly..Im not even sure i can find the connectors or the software to do it with...the real question is whether youre willing to risk it on a pre 1995 vehicle and how much improvement it will actually make

Maybe modding the engine will give you better power/efficiency than messing with the ECU


93-97 LT1

I know...I saw you said you had experience tuning ECUs so I figured I'd ask as I'm in the beginning stages of learning the tables in TunerPro.

It's definitely worth it because any modding you do you'll have to update the PCM.
 

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93-97 LT1

I know...I saw you said you had experience tuning ECUs so I figured I'd ask as I'm in the beginning stages of learning the tables in TunerPro.

It's definitely worth it because any modding you do you'll have to update the PCM.

Not for basics like improving air intake,headers,better fuel pump and injectors,Better spark plugs

Now if you do more like fine tuning the timing and varying the injector pulse width THEN you need the ECU but by that point you are up against the law of diminishing returns ...thats why im bringing up the basics Air,Fuel and spark you gain the most by starting there

One question...It sounds like youre doing a custom build so why did you choose an OBD1 ECU..The LT1 is available with OBD2 and that you can do so much more with ..
 
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Sleepy Walker

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Not for basics like improving air intake,headers,better fuel pump and injectors,Better spark plugs

Now if you do more like fine tuning the timing and varying the injector pulse width THEN you need the ECU but by that point you are up against the law of diminishing returns ...thats why im bringing up the basics Air,Fuel and spark you gain the most by starting there

One question...It sounds like youre doing a custom build so why did you choose an OBD1 ECU ..

On the 94-96 Caprice/Impala SS you don't need to update the PCM, but it won't hurt having it finely tuned for every mod. My car is already tuned for the wheel/tire combo, air intake, exhaust, premium fuel, fans to come on sooner etc. I still need to adjust for the rear gear change.

I chose the car without a care of whether it was OBD1 or 2 because I know that either one can be tuned more easily than 86-93.
 

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On the 94-96 Caprice/Impala SS you don't need to update the PCM, but it won't hurt having it finely tuned for every mod. My car is already tuned for the wheel/tire combo, air intake, exhaust, premium fuel, fans to come on sooner etc. I still need to adjust for the rear gear change.

I chose the car without a care of whether it was OBD1 or 2 because I know that either one can be tuned more easily than 86-93.
My advice given how troublesome OBD1 tuning is ...you should get a spare ECU from the same car at a junkyard ..do all your mapping and tweaks on that just in case something doesnt work out youll still be able to use the car .
 

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What are your honest opinions on German reliability? They get bad flack for here crashing over 50k but they are unusually reliable on home turf. VW recently opened a plant stateside (mostly Passats) and I reckon that would help keep some parts costs down in VAG's attempts to increase sales.
 

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What are your honest opinions on German reliability? They get bad flack for here crashing over 50k but they are unusually reliable on home turf. VW recently opened a plant stateside (mostly Passats) and I reckon that would help keep some parts costs down in VAG's attempts to increase sales.
:krs: I got one of those...The US made ones are actually the best value in Large luxury sedans...


Anyway..First off german engineering is :blessed: BUT The way i see it Every german manufacturer has their specialty and you want to buy within that specialty

Mercedes benz specialty is Large Luxury sedans S class E class ,Limousines , overpriced G class SUV.....but when they try to make cheap shyt they end up with total trash like the C class,M class and now the A class:scust:

BMW...Specialty was coupes and sport sedans..the iconic 3 series and 5 series ...They have finally got the SUV thing right with the new x3s and X 5s

Volkswagen ..Its right in their name cars for the average Volks(people) They are the best at economy sedans..... jetta ,Golf, Passat,minivans,Beetle.....You wanna stay away from their SUVs ,they use the same platform and parts as the Porsche cayenne so you get poor reliability and high maintenance costs:trash:

Audi..Luxury sedans and coupes A4,A6,A8 .........Like VW (since they are owned by vw you wanna avoid their SUV for the very same reasons :trash:)
 

SumBlackguyz

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My horseshoe light is on. Is that bad? this guy I met on craigslist said he can fix it for $300

c0d5888c4dd5818b20f86ac594113d46x.jpg
 

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My horseshoe light is on. Is that bad? this guy I met on craigslist said he can fix it for $300

c0d5888c4dd5818b20f86ac594113d46x.jpg
Try inflating your tires first to the pressure written on the passenger door of your car...That sign means underinflation

If it goes away but comes back it means the tire is damaged and losing air...
If it doesnt go away in 10 minutes of driving then the tire pressure sensor has gone bad get it replaced

Some cars need reprogramming after a new sensor is put in..Im not sure some dude on craigslist would have the car Manufacturers updating software
Check the air pressure in your tires. Inflate the tire or tires that have low air pressure. Look for punctures. :comeon:
True..but if that doesnt work it means your TPMS (tire pressure sensor) has gone bad...Its a small device inside the tire attached to the rim.....its replaceable just go to a tire store like National tire and they can replace it
The sensor itself is like $75 and the labor shouldn't be more than 1.5 hours so a total of $200 or so
 
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