The notion that chitterlings, hog’s head cheese, pig feet, and ham hocks are not a part of the experience of white people is a strange one, but one can still encounter such views today. A typical example reads as follows:
Soul food is a triumph of the unconquerable spirit of African-Americans, which is celebrated each February during Black History Month.
Slaves were forced to eat the animal parts their masters threw away. They cleaned and cooked pig intestines and called them “chitterlings.” They took the butts of oxen and christened them “ox tails.” Same thing for pigs’ tails, pigs’ feet, chicken necks, smoked neck bones, hog jowls and gizzards.[
3]
When the origins of chitterlings and associated foods of the South are examined, however, what emerges is that these are foods that, far from originating in African American culture – or even the wider Southern culture – are derived from the foodways of England.
References to chitterlings, brawn/souse (hog’s head cheese), and pig feet can be found in numerous English sources, as can recipes. Chitterlings appear in the 1761
Royal English Dictionary, for example, where they are referred to as ‘the guts or bowels, generally applied to those of beasts fit for food’.[
4] Similarly, ‘chitterlings’ is listed in
A General Dictionary of Provincialisms (1838) as a word referring to ‘the small guts of hogs’.[
5] The 18th century English cookery book
Dictionarium Domesticum, being a new and compleat houshold [sic] dictionary, for the use both of city and country (1736) includes recipes for hog’s chitterlings, hog’s head cheese, and hog’s feet and ears:
Hannah Glasse’s
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747) was influential both in England and in the United States: Martha Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Benjamin Franklin all owned copies, with Franklin enjoying it so much that he brought it with him when he travelled to France.[
9] Glasse grew up on an English country estate and went on to be a cook in an earl’s household. Her childhood foods were luxurious and in her job she was cooking for the upper classes, so the dishes in her book can hardly be seen as poverty foods.