Afro-Brazilian Women Call For Support From Diaspora

Lil Big Daddy

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I have never heard of Black Brazilians looking down on us. They aren't Caribbeans or Africans. Most Black Brazilians look up to us, actually.

:stopitslime: doubt it. From my experience wit dem black p.rican and black Dominicans, a Black Brazilian would be highly offended to e referred to as black or mistaken for an afr. American.
Never seen it in person but shyt I done had so much hate from all the other 'black' latinos I find it hard to believe all of a sudden the brazilion black latinos just 'happen to be different' than all the rest and like us.

And be careful not tpo confuse biting our culture with loving it. Dem latinos bite everything blacks do damn near, and in the same breath will call u a niQQer. Speaking from a lifetime of experience bruh.
 

Bawon Samedi

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Its seems you're spinning from the topic in general. Again I asked you what made you think Black Brazilians hate AA's. Gotdamn do people on the Coli have to make everything so f*cking complex.
bruh fukk outa here wit all that first generation Haitian shyt nikka :what: u talking to somebody that grew up rounn all a dat. ALL OF IT. So kill dat shyt about how much they love us and love our culture nikka u talking to somebody who actually KNOW
Sorry but I don't understand what the fukk you're saying?

BETTER AND LIVED IT my nikka foh :camby: n try dem 'we are one' ducktales on a muthafukka dat didn't have to grow u roun Haitians n p.ricans.
don't get it fukked up cus how I talk bruh, War is universal . I done lived errwhere .
Um... I don't understand what you're saying, but I'm part Haitian and grew up in an area around a lot of Haitians even though I grew up in an Americanized High School. What are you talking about????:dahell::dahell::dahell:

And Im not even talkin about no damn Haitians in the first place :what:
im talking about black Brazilians. how da fuq u tryna spin this shyt about Haitians?
No. You made it even more about Haitians. I simply answered your question on why Haitians have beef with AA's. I only used Haitians as an example. You're the one who's avoiding my original question. Which was asking you why you think Afro-Brazilians hate AA's. Again I reiterate that Brazilians lout of every Latin American group like AAs more than even black Latin Americans like Haitians. And its the truth from my experience and I stick by it. You're the one going off topic.

Oh you just wanted errbody to know you Haitian bruh? Aite. Everybody clap for da boy in give him a sak pase, cus he Haitian yall .
I don't know why you're being this emotional for.

nikka foh :camby:

No.
 
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Bawon Samedi

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:stopitslime: doubt it. From my experience wit dem black p.rican and black Dominicans, a Black Brazilian would be highly offended to e referred to as black or mistaken for an afr. American.
Never seen it in person but shyt I done had so much hate from all the other 'black' latinos I find it hard to believe all of a sudden the brazilion black latinos just 'happen to be different' than all the rest and like us.

And be careful not tpo confuse biting our culture with loving it. Dem latinos bite everything blacks do damn near, and in the same breath will call u a niQQer. Speaking from a lifetime of experience bruh.

Anyone can talk about experience. From my experience living in the state of NY Puerto Ricans seem be not only the most Americanized latinos but easily integrated in AA communities. I too met many black/dark Puerto Ricans who identified black. I never met a c00n Puerto Rican(unlike Dominicans), most of the Puerto Ricans I knew were never ashamed to say they have black in their family. Heck I had some pale skinned PR friends who can pass for Italian brag about having black family members and wanting be. Not only that I have Puerto Ricans in my family on my mothers side which is African American. Again anyone can talk about experience. Puerto Ricans have been in states the longest compared to most latinos(only rivaled by Mexicans) and were discriminated the most compared to other latinos. And because of that they identified with AA struggle.
 

Lil Big Daddy

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Its seems you're spinning from the topic in general. Again I asked you what made you think Black Brazilians hate AA's..

And I answered multiple times and said from my experience with Black latinos of other backgrounds.

Sorry but I don't understand what the fukk you're saying?
Don't start dat cac shyt bruh :birdman:


No. You made it even more about Haitians. I simply answered your question on why Haitians have beef with AA's.?
I'll leave the COli right fukking now if u can copy and paste where I asked you hwy Haitians have beef with AA's. YOu cant, nikka. That was just your inability to contain your overzealous excitement at an opportunity to tell everybody you Haitian :mjlol:
I only used Haitians as an example.?
And for no gat damn reason cus dey'n got shyt to do with what WE talkin about. (black brazilins deserving favor from black americans)


I don't know why you're being this emotional for

:mjcry:
 

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So because they have the least beef with us amongst latin americans I should say fukk it n be cool with it :what:
so hol up bruh, u saying if Haitian beef with AA's is at level 100, Mexicans is at a 99, and P.Ricans is at a 98, that should be acceptable because it's the lease of the 3 groups who hate us? :wtf:
That's still a 98 level of hatred out of 100..just for perspective's sake.....so wat is u talm bout bruh ?? They don't like us until they need us,period.
Idgaf if it is a little less than the next group's hate, its still hate nikka wtf :wtf:
What are you talking about? You said, "dese nikkas hate afro americans". I asked you where did you get this idea from that Afro-Brazilians have a dislike for AA's. When I said they and PR's have "the least amount of beef with AA's", I meant to really say they have no dislike with AA's but for the most part are cool with AA's and their culture. No I didn't mean, "fukk it n be cool with it", thats just your own words. I just asked you where do you get the idea of Brazilians disliking AA's from.

And as for the Haitian part. I'm actually part Haitian descent and yes first generation Haitians(especially from Miami) do have issues with AA's due when they first arrived here during the 70's, 80's and early 90's. It seems like some of them hold a strong grudge. Why the heck do you think Zoe Pound was formed. Don't believe me ask fellow Haitian poster @Intruder v3.0, he'll tell you in full detail. And again first gen Haitians. So yea compared to Haitians, Brazilians are more friendly towards AA's.
I do and i do NOT hold a grudge. I know that sounds confusing but i'll explain.

I hold a grudge because African Americans (in general) tend to be the most vocal group when it's time to complain about being persecuted and targeted whereas in Miami THEY were the ones targeting Haitians for no reason whatsoever. Even school AA school teachers used to pick on haitian kids in their class just because. I was never a victim of violence myself but i seen and heard the verbal/ignorant abuse and the intimidations and shyt like that. Like told you guys i know haitian kidS (S as in plural) that committed suicide from being jumped in school by african americans just for being haitian. How can you want me to be sympathetic to your cause when you are doing the same sh!t to me that you complain the white man does to you?

AT THE SAME TIME

I do NOT hold a grudge because know better than to judge an entire group of people by the actions of a few. I've met and even dated many African Americans that are unlike the fukwads i used to come across for the most part at first, that are cool and welcoming of other blacks including haitians. Add the fact that my friends that i hang with the most these days are african american and we have a mutual respect and admiration for each other's cultures. I still come across some of the ignorant fukks (which are in great numbers) every now and then tho.

So when i come across some haitians who simply don't associate with AAs I know better than to judge them for THEIR ignorance of AA people and culture because I understand most of their experiences with AAs have probably been horrible. And until they experience what i experienced (the good) they will never see things the way i see them
 
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Now who else wanna fukk with Hollywood Court?
:stopitslime: doubt it. From my experience wit dem black p.rican and black Dominicans, a Black Brazilian would be highly offended to e referred to as black or mistaken for an afr. American.
Never seen it in person but shyt I done had so much hate from all the other 'black' latinos I find it hard to believe all of a sudden the brazilion black latinos just 'happen to be different' than all the rest and like us.

And be careful not tpo confuse biting our culture with loving it. Dem latinos bite everything blacks do damn near, and in the same breath will call u a niQQer. Speaking from a lifetime of experience bruh.


:wtf:

More than half the country identifies themselves as black or mixed in Brazil, Puerto Ricans view themselves as white which is why nearly 80% of their declared census is white.

You're trying to group them in with Dominicans and Ricans and they don't even speak Spanish :dead:
 

Bawon Samedi

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And I answered multiple times and said from my experience with Black latinos of other backgrounds.
I seen it in your recent post. I agree with Dominicans. But with Puerto Rican I've that they are at least not ashamed to acknowledge. Again this is my experience and doesnt hold true for everyone else. But I doubt Afro-Brazilians would be as ashamed of their African ancestry/culture like Dominicans/Puerto Rican since, Afro-Brazilian culture is heavily influenced and Brazil is sometimes known as a little Africa because of it.

Don't start dat cac shyt bruh :birdman:
:whoa:


I'll leave the COli right fukking now if u can copy and paste where I asked you hwy Haitians have beef with AA's. YOu cant, nikka.
so hol up bruh, u saying if Haitian beef with AA's is at level 100, Mexicans is at a 99, and P.Ricans is at a 98,
But I say Haitians hated AAs like Mexicans.

That was just your inability to contain your overzealous excitement at an opportunity to tell everybody you Haitian :mjlol:
Mostly everyone on this site knows I'm Haitian/part Haitian. What would I be trying to prove?:yeshrug: I only used Haitians as an example. Like @Poitier said I can use Caribbeans and Africans to say how Brazilians have a less dislike for us compared to them.

And for no gat damn reason cus dey'n got shyt to do with what WE talkin about. (black brazilins deserving favor from black americans)
But thats not what I was responding to you about.
 

Poitier

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Bailes of Madureira – The “charme” of cultura negra in Rio de Janeiro: where black America meets black Brazil



Note from BW of Brazil: The city of Rio de Janeiro is of course famous for many things. Its breathtaking views and beaches. The Christ the Redeemer statue. The Maracanã futebol stadium that recently hosted the 2014 World Cup Final won by Germany. These are just a few of the city’s attractions. Rio is also home to a vibrant black culture. The roots of bailes black (black dances) came out of the tremendousinfluence African-American Soul and Funk music had on its Afro-Brazilian following of the era. From there, to the continuation of bailes funk (funk dances) and bailes charmes, these parties still represent where one can get a taste feel of the black cultural experience in Brazil.


For sale in Madureira: the latest cultural assessories

At these parties that are frequented by well-dressed mostly black men and women aged 18-35, one is sure to hear the latest sounds of American superstars such as Chris Brown and Beyoncé as well as legendary icons such as Michael Jackson, James Brown and everyone in between. Adding to the often times one-sided cultural exchange, on the Rio stop of her world tour, Beyoncé herself paid homage to the popular funk andpassinho styles coming out of primarily Afro-Brazilian communities. To keep up on the latest fashion trends and releases by international stars such as Beyoncé, her husband Jay-Z, or other stars, one can even buy gym shoes, baseball caps, CDs and DVDs at these dances. A sort of world within a world, these bailes are yet another place Afro-Brazilians have carved out where they can be proud of their race and their culture, briefly sheltered from Brazil’s obsessive “dictatorship of whiteness” in nearly every realm of society.

The bailes charmes of Madureira in Rio, like clubs and dances held in Belo Horizonteand São Paulo, are most definitely worth checking out if you happen to be in the city visiting!

The bailes of Madureira: The “charme” of blackness in Rio de Janeiro

For nearly 25 years, the famous baile charme (charm dance) has rocked the Viaduto Negrão de Lima in the Rio neighborhood of Madureira. The beat of the samba and the hip shaking of the mulatas from the Acadêmicos da Rocinha Samba School in São Conrado gives way to the swing of black music and the choreographed “passinho” steps of the parties that carry nicknames like ‘Soul + Black’.

The bailes began in 1990 when a group of friends got authorization from Viaduto de Madureira, in Praça das Mães, to put on the “Charm na Rua (Charme in the Street)” project, which would happen every Saturday. The first dance featured DJs Markin New Charm, Kally and Loopy and guests DJ Malboro, Fernandinho and Corello.


Charme in Madureira

In 1995, the project was renamed “Projeto Rio Charme”, and reformed its dependencies, for the control and safety of the public. Today, Viaduto is recognized by the State Government as a center of popular concentration, responsible for the diffusion of black culture in Rio de Janeiro.


Flyer announcing the appearance of American R&B singer Keith Sweat

In addition to weekly events and awards, the space has hosted many international and national attractions such as Chingy, Montell Jordan, Keith Sweat, Darrius, Rah Digga,Negra Li, Quelynah, Nina Black, Sampa Crew, Dughettu, Sandra de Sá, Racionais MCsand others.

Baile Charme in Madureira



In command of the sounds, DJ Corello, inventor of the term ‘charme’ in the 80s and an icon of the Viaduto Madureira parties. “The name ‘charme’ came about because it was too hard to pronounce the guys to pronounce ‘rhythm n’ blues’. The genre has always had its ghetto in Zona Norte, or the north zone of Rio de Janeiro. Now Zona Sul (South Zone), that consumes fashion, seems its getting a little of tired of música eletrônica(electronic music). Hopefully it’s not just a fad, I want to plant a seed so that more rhythm n’ blues parties come about,” says Corello.


Simone Criolla, Ana Paula Pimentel and Mariana Villanova: set the tone for dancers at the party| Photo: Felipe O’Neill

He takes to Rocinha his dream team: DJs Guto and R!Jay, residents of the baile de Madureira, DJs and guest Nepal, the requested soul DJ of the new generation. Just important as the sound, the dance and the outfits complete the nights of the charme. Therefore, in addition to DJ-ing, the climate of this suburban dance at the foot of Rocinha is also guaranteed by the beautiful mulheres negras (black women) and their afros, which will parade in the middle of the crowd and indulge themselves on the dance floor.


Monique dos Santos, Dayane Barros and Viviane Faustino are regulars at the Charme
 

Poitier

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“There are choreographed passinho steps, but they can also dance alone, as long as it’s charme!” reveals Simone Criolla, an administration student and producer responsible for the selection of the team of models and dancers.

Dream Team do Passinho



:The idea is to do it once a month,” guarantees Jerônimo Machado, producer of artists like Fernanda Abreu and also the one responsible for the party. “With the advent of theUPPs (Police Pacification Units), I thought about putting into the community a proposal of the baile black (black dance), that I attended for a while, and bring fun to the community that was deprived of bailes funk (funk dances), so as not to get that story of the traficante (drug dealer) who left and nothing else happens. I distributed 400 tickets to the people of Rocinha and another 400 for the guys there from Madureira,” says Machado, who took advantage of the event to celebrate his 53rd birthday.


Michel, Madureira’s resident DJ for more than 20 years

History

At 57 years of age, Marco Aurélio Ferreira, aka DJ Corello, is preparing a book recounting his long history of experience in the dances. “I’m writing, I want to release it this year still. I’ll talk about the influence of black American music in Brazil, telling the story of the sound teams of names like Big Boy and Ademir, and I will also speak of the transformations that radio went through,” describes Corello.


Baile charme of viaduto Negrão de Lima

An authority on the subject, he makes a rant about the myth surrounding the baile in ‘Dutão’ (as the Viaduto Negrão de Lima is affectionately called). “Madureira is not like the people of south zone think. The dance brings together a satisfactory number of people, but it could be triple, with caravans coming from the south zone, only that it doesn’t have sufficient bathrooms, no structure. It’s worth improving, but it needs large companies that look after the motion,” he suggests.


Actors Débora Nascimento and José Loreto portray Darkson e Tessália in the novela ‘Avenida Brasil’. The club scenes were inspired by Madureira

It was in late summer 2012 when much of the Brazilian viewing audience began watching a new saga on primetime TV. The novela would soon grow its the audience. Set in the suburbs of Rio de Janeiro, the story by writer João Emanuel Carneiro, Avenida Brasil, became a public phenomenon until the last chapter, in October of the same year.


Pedro, Leandro and Felipe have a good time in Madureira

At that time, DJ Michel could hardly suppose that the Madureira neighborhood known for its diversity of cultural movements, would enter the list of tourist destinations of the city and the novela multiplied the number of visitors of the famous baile charmebeneath the Viaduto Negrão de Lima, the old Madureira overpass, where Michel has resided for twenty years.


The ladies of Madureira

Proud to operate one of the most highly rated dances for supporters of “passinho do charme”, Michel ensures that the ball of the overpass already appears as a cultural reference of Madureira, perhaps every suburb. “The dance was stopped for three weeks because of a reform to improve onsite security. A frequenter stopped me in the street and said he was getting sick of not being able to go to the Viaduto on Saturday nights. It was then that I realized the importance of my work and this space.” He believes that, from a cultural standpoint, for Madureira the dance is as important as the samba schools Portela and Império Serrano, in addition to Jongo da Serrinha.


Leonardo Balbino de Paula, 25

In the novela, “Baile do Divino”, a fictitious name for the dance, the character Darkson (José Loretto) is one of the dancers of charme and a resident of Divino, inspired by the Madureira neighborhood. The actor took classes with dancers to make the character a “charmeiro” (attendee of charme dances). DJ Michel account that after characters like Darkson began appearing on the scene, the number of visitors has risen gradually. “Before the novela, we had an audience of 90% of natives and the remaining 10% were visitors. After the dancing began to appear in the novela, the number of visitors rose to 40% and the local people who hadn’t returned for some time came back.” Adriano, 37, an attendee since the age of 15, confirms the words of the DJ. “I came straight to thebaile charme, but I stopped for while. I went back after it started coming on the novela.”



In the Carnival of 2013, the Portela samba school featured Madureira as its theme and the overpass, of course, could not be left out. The school had a wing and a float dedicated to the movement, with great influence of black culture in the United States.

Under the overpass the straightening iron is out


Party under the overpass

It’s not hard to find girls with an innovative look and a “Black Power” (afro) hairstyle under the Negrão de Lima overpass. Some say that the charme dance is where the blacks of Rio truly find themselves. Accepting cabelo crespo (kinky/curly hair) is more than an attitude. It’s facing prejudice directly, without fear of criticism. At this dance, thechapinha (hair flattening iron) is out. “Out there I feel a certain prejudice for I having natural hair. I’m another one who threw the prancha (chapinha) out and decided to wear a hairstyle with more roots. Here I feel at home. We are family. Everyone knows and respects each other,” says Ana Paula, who is a technician in radiology.


Ana Paula, Kirse e Paloma – frequent attendees

Student Kirse Lima has attended the dance for four years. She met her boyfriend there. She notes that, historically, it’s the suburb where one finds the largest number of Afro-Brazilians. And at the charme dances, which take place in ghettos, the tendency is most blacks being among the regulars. But the presence of other races doesn’t bother her, she says: “The interaction between different tribes is characteristic of the space.”

Learning the various passinhos to the sound of American rhythms such as R&B and Soul was a challenge for the student Paloma. Not that it was difficult, she explains, but because there are some that require practice. “There are many passos (steps). The best school for learning them is practicing here every Saturday.”

Source: O Dia, Viva Favela, Catraca Livre, Delas iG
 

Malta

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Now who else wanna fukk with Hollywood Court?
You dead ass bruh?? :ohhh: or are u just trollin me :demonic:


They speak Portuguese.

“There are choreographed passinho steps, but they can also dance alone, as long as it’s charme!” reveals Simone Criolla, an administration student and producer responsible for the selection of the team of models and dancers.

Dream Team do Passinho



:The idea is to do it once a month,” guarantees Jerônimo Machado, producer of artists like Fernanda Abreu and also the one responsible for the party. “With the advent of theUPPs (Police Pacification Units), I thought about putting into the community a proposal of the baile black (black dance), that I attended for a while, and bring fun to the community that was deprived of bailes funk (funk dances), so as not to get that story of the traficante (drug dealer) who left and nothing else happens. I distributed 400 tickets to the people of Rocinha and another 400 for the guys there from Madureira,” says Machado, who took advantage of the event to celebrate his 53rd birthday.


Michel, Madureira’s resident DJ for more than 20 years

History

At 57 years of age, Marco Aurélio Ferreira, aka DJ Corello, is preparing a book recounting his long history of experience in the dances. “I’m writing, I want to release it this year still. I’ll talk about the influence of black American music in Brazil, telling the story of the sound teams of names like Big Boy and Ademir, and I will also speak of the transformations that radio went through,” describes Corello.


Baile charme of viaduto Negrão de Lima

An authority on the subject, he makes a rant about the myth surrounding the baile in ‘Dutão’ (as the Viaduto Negrão de Lima is affectionately called). “Madureira is not like the people of south zone think. The dance brings together a satisfactory number of people, but it could be triple, with caravans coming from the south zone, only that it doesn’t have sufficient bathrooms, no structure. It’s worth improving, but it needs large companies that look after the motion,” he suggests.


Actors Débora Nascimento and José Loreto portray Darkson e Tessália in the novela ‘Avenida Brasil’. The club scenes were inspired by Madureira

It was in late summer 2012 when much of the Brazilian viewing audience began watching a new saga on primetime TV. The novela would soon grow its the audience. Set in the suburbs of Rio de Janeiro, the story by writer João Emanuel Carneiro, Avenida Brasil, became a public phenomenon until the last chapter, in October of the same year.


Pedro, Leandro and Felipe have a good time in Madureira

At that time, DJ Michel could hardly suppose that the Madureira neighborhood known for its diversity of cultural movements, would enter the list of tourist destinations of the city and the novela multiplied the number of visitors of the famous baile charmebeneath the Viaduto Negrão de Lima, the old Madureira overpass, where Michel has resided for twenty years.


The ladies of Madureira

Proud to operate one of the most highly rated dances for supporters of “passinho do charme”, Michel ensures that the ball of the overpass already appears as a cultural reference of Madureira, perhaps every suburb. “The dance was stopped for three weeks because of a reform to improve onsite security. A frequenter stopped me in the street and said he was getting sick of not being able to go to the Viaduto on Saturday nights. It was then that I realized the importance of my work and this space.” He believes that, from a cultural standpoint, for Madureira the dance is as important as the samba schools Portela and Império Serrano, in addition to Jongo da Serrinha.


Leonardo Balbino de Paula, 25

In the novela, “Baile do Divino”, a fictitious name for the dance, the character Darkson (José Loretto) is one of the dancers of charme and a resident of Divino, inspired by the Madureira neighborhood. The actor took classes with dancers to make the character a “charmeiro” (attendee of charme dances). DJ Michel account that after characters like Darkson began appearing on the scene, the number of visitors has risen gradually. “Before the novela, we had an audience of 90% of natives and the remaining 10% were visitors. After the dancing began to appear in the novela, the number of visitors rose to 40% and the local people who hadn’t returned for some time came back.” Adriano, 37, an attendee since the age of 15, confirms the words of the DJ. “I came straight to thebaile charme, but I stopped for while. I went back after it started coming on the novela.”



In the Carnival of 2013, the Portela samba school featured Madureira as its theme and the overpass, of course, could not be left out. The school had a wing and a float dedicated to the movement, with great influence of black culture in the United States.

Under the overpass the straightening iron is out


Party under the overpass

It’s not hard to find girls with an innovative look and a “Black Power” (afro) hairstyle under the Negrão de Lima overpass. Some say that the charme dance is where the blacks of Rio truly find themselves. Accepting cabelo crespo (kinky/curly hair) is more than an attitude. It’s facing prejudice directly, without fear of criticism. At this dance, thechapinha (hair flattening iron) is out. “Out there I feel a certain prejudice for I having natural hair. I’m another one who threw the prancha (chapinha) out and decided to wear a hairstyle with more roots. Here I feel at home. We are family. Everyone knows and respects each other,” says Ana Paula, who is a technician in radiology.


Ana Paula, Kirse e Paloma – frequent attendees

Student Kirse Lima has attended the dance for four years. She met her boyfriend there. She notes that, historically, it’s the suburb where one finds the largest number of Afro-Brazilians. And at the charme dances, which take place in ghettos, the tendency is most blacks being among the regulars. But the presence of other races doesn’t bother her, she says: “The interaction between different tribes is characteristic of the space.”

Learning the various passinhos to the sound of American rhythms such as R&B and Soul was a challenge for the student Paloma. Not that it was difficult, she explains, but because there are some that require practice. “There are many passos (steps). The best school for learning them is practicing here every Saturday.”

Source: O Dia, Viva Favela, Catraca Livre, Delas iG


Arlindo Cruz always sings about Madureira


 

Bawon Samedi

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This is why I questioned Afro-Brazilians hating AA's.
Brazil's Bahia a link for African Americans

CACHOEIRA, BRAZIL — Semaj Williams, a stress-management consultant from New Jersey, feels Brazil in his past, and his present.

"It's very clear to me that in another life I was Brazilian," said the hulking Williams, seated on the shaded patio of a colonial convent-turned-upscale-hotel. "I'm sure of that: Brazil is one of my places."

He is one of thousands of U.S. visitors, virtually all of them African American, who have journeyed to the cobblestoned lanes of this northeastern Brazilian town in pursuit of roots and a shared history.

With its varied and exotic attractions, Brazil has long been a travel mecca, drawing more than 700,000 U.S. citizens annually. But the big attraction for many black Americans is Brazil's flourishing African heritage, most evident here in Bahia state, where vast slave plantations once serviced Europe's craving for sugar and tobacco.

The different African traditions have certainly been better preserved here," said Paulette Bradley, a marketing manager who was visiting with a group from Atlanta. "It seems that African heritage was more diluted in the States."

Black Americans' increasing advance into the middle class has created disposable income, leisure time and a multibillion-dollar tourism boom. Brazil may not yet rival Africa as a "roots" destination, but those keen for a cultural encounter are converging on Bahia.

"There's a shared sense of the African diaspora culture, of being a product of the slave trade," said Lisa Earl Castillo, an American scholar in Salvador, the capital of Bahia.

Despite barriers of language and culture, many African American visitors speak of a sense of empathy and identification with Afro-Brazilians. Folk practices still thriving here evoke for many the specter of slavery and its aftermath, calling to mind wisps of oral tradition passed down by long-dead grandparents and great-grandparents.

A must-see on the African American itinerary is this picturesque colonial town and its mid-August spectacle, the festival of Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte, or Our Lady of the Good Death. It is a classic incarnation of religious syncretism: Roman Catholic elements imported by the Portuguese coexist with Afro-Brazilian devotion, specifically the belief system known as Candomble.

Today, agencies specializing in African American tourism book rooms months ahead, filling hotels here and in Salvador, a two-hour drive to the southeast. Package deals with stops in Rio de Janeiro and elsewhere are built around the festival and its Aug. 15 finale.

It is a date of raucous celebrations to the beat of drums and brass bands, including a vigorous samba de roda, a traditional dance performance in a circle. Afterward, participants feast on feijoada, the iconic, bean-based Brazilian soul food dish.

African-inspired rites unfold parallel to the feast of the Assumption, which marks the Catholic belief in the assumption of the Virgin Mary into heaven.

Preserving belief here is a unique society: the "sisterhood" of Boa Morte, mostly elderly black women who have kept their ways over the decades, even as similar social groups dating from the era of slavery disappeared elsewhere in Brazil.

Among other things, the organizations are said to have helped slaves buy their freedom. The groups' connection to the Roman Catholic Church provided a measure of protection, even as members continued to revere their African orixas, or deities, linking them to Catholic saints.

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"Somebody built up a wall in the United States, and the African Americans are unable to see their history," lamented Marcos Reis, a tour guide who lectures on the mingling of European and African customs. "Here in Bahia we were able to keep our orixas."

For many visitors to this humid, verdant region along the River Paraguacu, the sisterhood is reminiscent of secret women's associations in Africa and storied underground slave societies in the U.S. South.

"Brazil has been an incredible classroom for me," said Wande Knox Goncalves, a teacher from Pasadena.

When she was specializing in African studies at the University of Ibadan in Nigeria in the 1970s, Knox recalled, a wizened professor told her: "If you want to know about African continuities in the New World, you have to go to Bahia."

She made her first foray here in the early 1990s. Boa Morte blew her away.

"It brought together everything I had studied about the continuity of African culture," Knox said. "These women were revolutionary. And they looked like your grandmother or your mother or your auntie! It was an incredible thing to see."

She returned to Brazil, and married a Brazilian here in 1995. Every two years, Knox organizes visiting groups from the United States.

"We African Americans talk about our connection to Africa, but we don't have that much evidence for our connection," Knox said. "But we go to Brazil and Cachoeira, and it's all so evident, and meaningful."


http://articles.latimes.com/2007/sep/23/world/fg-bahia23
 
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